Augustinus Bader Contributor and award-winning medical and cosmetic doctor, Dr. Ewoma, takes over the Bader Journal each week to answer some of your most commonly asked questions on application, ingredients, and skin concerns. This week, Dr. Ewoma explains how to manage enlarged pores and minimize blackheads.
Why do we have pores?
All too often pores get a bad reputation, but in fact they are an essential part of our complexion; housing our skin’s natural oils, also known as sebum, which is responsible for keeping us healthy and hydrated. This means that while we can't completely eradicate our pores, keeping them clear of any impurities will minimize their size. In essence, when your pores get clogged, they will expand in size.
The size of your pores is genetic and, despite some skincare myths, pores cannot open and close - so skin treatments won’t be capable of making them physically smaller; instead you can utilise products that will prevent them from expanding in size and decrease their visibility.
The appearance of pores correlates with your skin type so those with oilier skin tend to have more and larger pores because all that oil needs to fit through; naturally this means people with drier skin tend to have a lot less noticeable pores.
Understanding enlarged pores
Collagen in our skin supports the walls which maintain our pores rigidity so opting for products that stimulate collagen synthesis will prevent them enlarging. The Cream is not only loaded with antioxidants to help protect the skin from free radical damage but also vitamin A which works to boost collagen production and gently exfoliate the skin, in turn keeping pores unclogged.
The Victoria Beckham Beauty by Augustinus Bader Cell Rejuvenating Priming Moisturiser works to renew your complexion and decrease the appearance of pores. It is packed with natural papaya enzymes to soften and brighten, vitamin E and B5 to nourish and hydrate and natural black tea ferment to refresh, smooth and illuminate.
Understanding blackheads
While clogged pores look similar to blackheads, they aren’t. Instead they are sebaceous filaments which line the inside of the follicle and can cause the pore to look larger. To put it simply, the oil gland produces an excess of oil, the oil then mixes with dead skin cells and other debris in the pore lining, the mixed material then travels through the pore to the skin’s surface, where it is exposed to the air, causing it to oxidise and turn black.
Whiteheads and blackheads actually consist of the same material - sebum and dead skin cells - but the way they form has some very key differences. Unsurprisingly, whiteheads are white in colour and occur when your pores become clogged with a build up of sebaceous material and bacteria, blackheads on the other hand live within an open pore which means the material is exposed to oxygen. It’s key to remember, blackheads aren’t caused by ‘dirty skin’ and they certainly can’t be ‘scrubbed away’. Most commonly they present in oily complexions because excess oil is key in their formation.
The Essence works to cleanse, tone and exfoliate as it removes impurities from the surface of our skin and regulates the production of sebum. It uses Phytic Acid, which works to gently exfoliate, boosting cell turnover and promoting collagen production while beta hydroxy acid, Salicylic Acid, clears pores of oil, dead cells and debris.
Pores have become a real complexion nemesis but it’s important to treat your skin with kind, nourishing products rather than harsh, stripping formulas which will only exacerbate the problem. They can’t be shrunk, opened or closed but instead they can be cleared of impurities and minimized in appearance with the use of the right products.
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